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“Gumbo” Soil Won’t Drain
Problem: “Our clay soil is mush when wet and like concrete when dry, and nothing will grow in it.”
Reader Solution: “We’re in the process of amending our soil with expanded shale. It’s a gravel-size rock that’s pumped full of air. It aerates heavy clay soil, which makes it easier to work and helps it drain better. I’ve already noticed that the part of the garden we’ve done drained much better than the rest of the garden during the last rain.” Sue Blackburn
Expert Input
Sue has definitely done her research. According to Steve George, a horticulturist at the Texas Cooperative Extension service, your clay soil can benefit from expanded shale if it’s heavy and sticky when wet “and gets deep cracks when it’s dry in the summer.” Plants don’t grow well in clay soil because they don’t get enough oxygen. Expanded shale creates cavities in the soil to hold both air and water. George recommends adding 3 in. of 1/4-in. to 3/8-in. shale, along with 3 in. of compost and tilling them into your soil 6 to 8 in. deep. Then cover your garden bed with a 3-in. layer of mulch. Plus: These are our favorite landscaping tips for all house styles.
The good news about expanded shale is that unlike other amendments such as compost or fertilizer, you only need to add the shale to your garden beds once. After that, you’ll never need to add compost or commercial fertilizer again. The bad news is that expanded shale costs more than compost (about $10 for a 40-lb. bag; slightly less if you buy it in bulk). But according to George, it’s worth it. “Using expanded shale is just so much better. It makes it fun to garden in clay.”
Find expanded shale online at Amazon.
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Why are There Mushrooms in My Yard?
Problem: “We have so many mushrooms in our lawn that they make the weeds seem easy to control. We must have six different kinds, and they’re worst after it rains. We’ve got a dog and grandkids, and those mushrooms are not only disgusting, but I’m worried someone’s going to eat one.”
Reader Solution: Elusive. “We’ve tried using fungicides, but they’re expensive, they require twice-weekly applications and you need to treat every single mushroom. If you miss even one application, the mushrooms come back and you need to start over again. We’re not sure what to do.” Eric Lucas
Expert Input: How to Get Rid of Mushrooms in the Yard
We have good news and bad news for you, Eric. The good news, according to University of Minnesota turf expert Bob Mugaas, is that while mushrooms can look unsightly (and they’re worse in years with a lot of rain), they’re actually beneficial to your lawn. “They’re part of the breakdown of organic material in the soil, and they help recycle nutrients.”
The bad news, as you’ve already discovered, is that mushrooms are nearly impossible to get rid of. They’re actually the fruit of an extensive underground root system. So even if you remove the visible mushrooms or use fungicides, the source of them is still there (they’re like the tip of an iceberg).
According to Mugaas, you have several options. “You can certainly pull them.” This won’t permanently rid your lawn of mushrooms, but it can give you temporary relief. There’s another name for mushrooms: white fungus balls in soil.
You can also make your lawn less hospitable to fungi by correcting drainage problems and eliminating decaying organic matter. Grind down stumps, rake up grass clippings, dig up buried lumber, aerate, dethatch and replace old mulch.
The easiest option (or maybe the hardest for you, Eric) is to make peace with your mushrooms. Their numbers will increase and decrease depending on the season. Teach your grandchildren never to eat mushrooms from the lawn, and during cool, wet periods, keep a close eye on your pets.
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Seasonal Swamp
Problem: “I have a low spot in my yard that fills with runoff from our downspouts during rainstorms. It’s not a constant problem, but it’s a bear to grow grass there.”
Reader Solution: None yet. Help! Alena Gust
Expert Input
Alena, if you have workable soil (not clay), a rain garden is an easy and effective solution for a short-term, isolated drainage problem. “Building a rain garden means you don’t have to fight a losing battle to grow turf,” says Douglas Owens-Pike, plant ecologist and owner of EnergyScapes, a Minneapolis landscape design firm. “It’s also a great way to treat rainfall as a resource rather than a problem.”
All you need is a shallow depression (which it sounds like you already have) that has the soil amended so it drains quickly. Make sure your rain garden is located at least 10 ft. from your foundation so you won’t have any seepage problems in your basement. Plant it with shrubs and perennials that tolerate pooling water as well as periods of drought (type “rain garden” into your online browser and you’ll find tons of plant lists). The amended soil and water-loving plants capture the excess water, and it slowly percolates into the earth instead of running into the storm sewer or sitting on the surface of your lawn.
And according to Owens-Pike, rain gardens aren’t limited to flowers or areas with full sun. “Partially shaded areas planted with lower-growing trees and shrubs can create wonderful wildlife habitat rain gardens that become perfect nesting areas for birds.” (For detailed instructions for building a rain garden, type “rain garden.” in the search box above.) Next, check out 14 small-space landscaping ideas you can DIY.
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